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Steeroids - Corvette

Installation (pdf)

Corvette Header Clearances
Corvette Steeroids - Difference between kits
Corvette Steeroids - Recommended Alignment Specs
Corvette Steeroids - Binding of the U-Joints

Corvette Steeroids - General Overview

  • Steeroids™ Offers Improved Steering Feel -Recirculating ball steering is vague and unresponsive, especially "on center". Control is greatly enhanced.
  • Steeroids Offers Quicker Ratio -Steering racks offer quicker ratios. Steeroids™ power kits yield approximately 2.5 turns lock-to-lock (~2.9 for manual).
  • Steeroids Are Lighter Weight -Compared to the stock steering system.
  • Steeroids Offer Bolt On Installation -Absolutely no welding, or drilling. Installs with basic hand tools in approximately 3 hours.
  • Stock Pump Used -Existing or readily available power steering pump and brackets can be used.
  • Steeroids Come As A Complete Kit -All necessary parts are included with the exception of the power steering pump.
    • Parts Included With Steeroids:
    • Rack and pinion
    • Adapter brackets (powder coated black)
    • Tie rod ends (Self cleaning & lubricating, teflon lined).
    • U-joint assembly
    • Power steering hoses
    • Misc. fasteners (grade-8)
    • Steering Columns Also Available!

PLEASE NOTE: When deciding on a manual or power kit, we usually recommend going with the power kits. Most customers have enjoyed more benefits from the power rack, since the quick ratio manual (~2.9 turns lock-to-lock) still has resistance at lower speeds.

Corvette Steeroids - Header Clearances

The following is a list of headers that our customers have told us have or have not worked for them. Our systems are not limited to these headers by any means, but you can use them as a routing style reference for your own headers. It is the routing style that is important, not the name brand. You can look these up to see if yours have similar routing styles.

Small Block:

- Black Jack - No Problem

- Flotech 11106FLT or 31106 FLT - Dimple Required in Drivers Side

- Hedman long tube with a 4-2-1 collector SB - major dimple required

- Hedman side pipes - Dimple Required

- Hooker 2456HKR or 2456-1HKR - No Problem

- Hooker 2134HKR or 2134-1HKR Super Comps - No Problem

- Hooker 2224, 2224-1 or 2234 Side Pipes- Dimple Required in Drivers Side

- Thorley Headers with L82 - No Problem

- Walker Dynomax - No Problem

Big Block:

- Stahl 2 1/8" fits - Fit with dimpling

- Stock Manifold - 454 No Problem

- Stainless Works - 2" Flange, 3" Collector No Problem

- Hedman 2" - Needs Dimple

- Hooker Side Pipes - No Problem

- Hooker Longboy's need modification

- Hooker Supercomps - No Problem (even with a 572 ci tall deck!)

If you currently have Steeroids and see any conflicts, or if you have any additions to this list, please email Ken so that we can update this page.

PLEASE NOTE: This reference picture was taken with older bracketry. Your system configuration may not look exactly like this in hardware or in angles of the U-Joint assembly shown.

Corvette Steeroids - Difference between kits

We offer 5 different Corvette kits between 1963 and 1982. There are two primary differences between the kits: U-Joints and Hoses

  • 1963-1966 take a 3/4" U-Joint at the steering column, where 1967-1982 take a 1" U-Joint at the steering column.
  • 1963-1979 small block kits have a pressure power steering hose with a different phase angle than the big block pressure hose.
  • 1980-1982 have their own pressure power steering hose.

Corvette Steeroids - Recommended Alignment Specs

Recommended alignment settings for 63-82 Corvettes with Steeroids:

Toe (total) - 0-1/8" (increase from 0 for greater stability)
Camber - 0°-.25° negative
Caster - 3°-6° positive (add as much positive caster as possible)

Toe (total) - 1/8"
Camber - 0°-.5° negative

Corvette Steeroids - Binding of the U-Joints

This is an area that can take some fine-tuned adjustment, although it is rarely an issue uneasily resolved. Usually when binding is felt, the driver will notice a stiff spot in the steering wheel approximately every 90 degrees. It can be adjusted more than most people recognize, and with some applied knowledge and understanding of why it is binding, all binding will disappear.

Binding most commonly occurs in the upper U-Joint. Binding occurs when the angle has become too extreme OR when the double U-Joint is not properly aligned. If the double U-Joint gets an "S" configuration in it, as opposed to a nice straight arch down to the rack, it will start to bind. There are several different methods to go about adjusting this. The most common method to relieve this angle is to loosen the steering column at the two inner locations. One at the fire wall under the dash and the other under the dash up closer to the steering wheel. With the steering column loose, pull back on the steering wheel toward the driver. This should relieve some of the angle. When making this adjustment, be sure to let the support bearing for the intermediate shaft "float" - or in other words, leave the jam nuts loose. Once the steering column is as far to the rear of the car as the double U-Joint will allow, tighten everything back up. 99% of the time, this will eliminate any binding felt in the double U-joint.

For the more obstinate instances, if pulling the steering column all the way back does not relieve the angle, more adjustment is available. With the steering column loose at both locations and the support bearing "floating," use some form of leverage bar (a 2x4 or piece of metal) and move the end of the steering column over toward the engine. The rubber grommet that the steering column passes through at the fire wall has adjustment built into it for side to side adjustment as well as up and down. (This was to accommodate for the large tolerances when mounting the body to the frame at the factory.) By moving the front end of the steering column toward the center of the vehicle, you are even more so relieving the angle on the double U-Joint.